Found a shortcut for fixture offsets that saved me 20 minutes today

I've been fighting with setting fixture offsets on a Haas VF-2 for like 6 months now. I always used a dial indicator to find the edge every time and it ate up so much time. Today I tried using a known reference block and just touched off once then added the offset in the control. It worked PERFECT and I had my first part running in under 5 minutes. Has anyone else tried skipping the indicator on simple square parts or am I just late to the party?

3 comments

3 Comments

drew_reed628d agoMost Upvoted

That reference block trick is a game changer once you get your machine zeroed in. You just gotta make sure your vise is indicated in square first, otherwise that offset will be off. I do the same thing on my VF-2 but I'll probe the first part of a run to dial it in, then use the block for the rest. Makes a huge difference when you're running a dozen ops. You already running a digital readout on yours?

alexk608d ago

My old Bridgeport doesn’t have a DRO, so I’m still running vernier scales and a lot of patience. Honestly, it’s like how people keep using cash for groceries even though cards are faster-you just get used to your own rhythm. Ngl, once you lock in your vise and method, the block trick saves more time than any digital upgrade.

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smith.anna7d agoMost Upvoted

Man, that "block trick" you mentioned really is where it's at. I did the same thing for years on my old manual mill before I finally caved and threw a DRO on it. The whole cash versus card thing is a perfect way to put it too. There's something about reading those vernier scales that forces you to slow down and actually pay attention to every move you make. Once you get that vise dialed in dead square and you know exactly where your block sits, you can bust out parts almost as fast as someone with a fresh Haas. It's all about building that muscle memory where you don't even have to think about the math anymore, you just know what your table's going to do before it does it.