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Tried a 10 volume developer on a level 7 lift and got way less warmth than I wanted
Last month I had a client in my chair who wanted to go from a level 4 up to a soft level 7, and she kept saying she hated any orange peeking through. I figured I'd play it safe and mix 10 volume with my lightener instead of my usual 20, thinking it would slow things down and keep it cooler. What actually happened was I got almost zero warmth, but the lift was patchy around her hairline and it took me two extra rounds to even it out. She ended up happy, but I sat there afterward wondering if I traded one problem for a worse one. The slower lift meant more time on the scalp, and she flinched twice near the front, which is not what I want in a single process. So here is the debate I keep having with myself: is a gentler developer worth the uneven lift, or should I just mix 20 and control the tone with my toner? I get that every head is different, but I want to hear how you all handle a client who is scared of brass. Do you go low and slow, or full strength and fix the tone after?
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